Life is not about gutting out every situation

Just came across a quote which made me thoughtful:

“Life is not about gutting out every situation. It’s about identifying opportunity or the lack thereof. If your pride is all that is standing in the way of quitting, quit. The right people won’t care and the wrong people don’t matter. If you know you’re on the right path, persevere though the pain. It will be worth it.” — Seth Godin

In an earlier post I wrote last year, I had talked about how I had grown up believing I could achieve anything with sheer grit and hard work. It’s only been recently after life had led me on some not-so-well-trodden paths that I realised that this belief I had isn’t always true. That sometimes it’s not about “gutting it out” (I like that phrase) and that one needs to know when to quit. It’s not failure, it’s about identifying the “lack of opportunity” and choosing to move on.

That said, I suppose the difficulty may not really be the quitting, but whether a particular situation is “right path” or “lack of opportunity”, i.e., how do I know if I am supposed to persevere or quit?!

In thinking about this issue, I thought I would recap some of the factors which I have relied on previously to identify a “lack of opportunity” versus “right path” situation.

Indicators of a “lack of opportunity” situation (in no particular order):

• No support from close ones or people whose opinions you respect (i.e. they too do not think this is worth pursuing)
• No sense of peace internally
• You are going nowhere – not seeing any fruit/result (I know this is tricky though – when is the cutoff point to make this determination?? I think this has to go in combination with other factors)
• Specific word from God (spoken or written)
• Opportunity fizzles out on its own (supposing you’ve done what you can and the outcome is out of your control). In which case, lesson is to LET IT GO and move on to other things.
• Constantly feeling distracted

Indicators of the “right path” (in no particular order):

• Small victories (amongst the huge challenges), which encourage you along the way.
• Sense of fulfilment and contentment (This doesn’t mean no complaints or 100% happy. I define this as going to bed after a day’s work NOT thinking about doing something else)
• (Good) things happen which you did not expect/plan.

Maybe having lists like those above would be helpful in figuring out what to axe and what to pursue this year as we face 2012. That said, as fearful as I am of regrets and making the wrong decision / wasting time, I guess I have started to learn that a “lack of opportunity” situation may sometimes be a stepping stone to the “right path”, and that I should not be so scared of it.

Any comments and additions to the lists above would be helpful!

 

FAQs on planning safari in Tanzania

In the past year, I’ve received several emails from friends and friends of friends asking about travel advice on Tanzania. There are so many things to do in Tanzania, but safari is the main one which people come to Tanzania to do. For those of you who have been on safari, I’m sure you will agree with me that it really is one of the most amazing experiences you can ever have. Nothing beats seeing these animals in their natural environment; you can watch them for hours just doing something as mundane as chewing on a tree branch. There is so much to learn and see and every time it is different. And the setting is so tranquil and so movingly beautiful that once you have been immersed in it, it’s hard to leave and go back to the real world!

Anyway, having travelled quite a bit within Tanzania, I am quite aware that the most gruelling and mind-boggling thing is really planning the trip logistics and figuring out how to get around. Hence, the aim of this post is mainly to (i) help you decide where to go; and (ii) how to get there. This is not intended as a travel guide so it will be necessary to do further supplementary research on things like costs and accommodation.

(Please note that all pictures below belong to me and were taken on my trips. Kindly do not reproduce without permission)

Q: How many places are there to do safari in Tanzania?

A: Too many! Tanzania has one of the highest concentration of wildlife in the world. You can literally be driving on the road and be stopped by an elephant trying to cross.

Q: Duh! So where should I go on safari in Tanzania?

A: First timers on safari (and if u suspect this is something u will only do once in your life (although I think this conclusion might change after you’ve done it)) my advice would be to go to the world-renowned parks which are located in the Northern highlands of Tanzania, mainly Serengeti National Park, Ngorongoro Crater, and Tarangire National Park. I recommend these places for the first-timer because the Northern parks are more well-connected, easily accessible, have better infrastructure (read: tarmac roads leading from the towns and mobile phone signal) and you also have a larger range and variety of accomodation and tour packages to choose from. Also, the Northern parks are sprawling with game and vast animal sightings are guaranteed.

Anyway if you didn’t know, these areas are famous for a reason.

The Serengeti is where the Great Wildebeest Migration happens. Hundreds of thousands of wildebeest and zebra move from Southern Serengeti up north in pursuit of the rains. Timing is very important for visiting the Serengeti because during certain times of the year, there are very few animals left in the Serengeti as they have mostly crossed into the Maasai Mara in Kenya (the Serengeti spans across the Tanzanian/Kenyan border but in Kenya it is the Maasai Mara). The journey to the North starts in February, and in October-December the animals make the journey back down South again. The river crossings (Mara River and Grumeti River – July to September) of the wildebeest are also dramatic events and many safari vehicles station themselves by the major rivers for several days just waiting for the wildebeest to cross. The beauty of it is that these animals’ behaviour are so unpredictable but once they move they move in a multitude and the sheer number of them galloping across the rivers and plains is simply astounding.

Picture below of zebra and wildebeest at the Ngorongoro Conversation Area (the area just outside the Crater) bordering the Serengeti (unfortunately no picture of Serengeti as I personally have not been there! But it’s the same sprawling plains.)

The Ngorongoro Crater is the largest natural volcanic crater in the world. It is actually a collapsed volcano and you can learn all about how it was formed at the little museum at the admin entrance. It is so huge that the landscape in different parts of the crater bed is actually vastly different. Tons of animals are literally ‘trapped’ inside as they have no way to get out. But of course they have everything they need in there! The usual itinerary involves spending either a half or full day driving around inside the Crater, and then heading off to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and/or Serengeti National Park.  Depending on the time of the year, a visit to Serengeti National Park can be substituted with Tarangire National Park, which is also close by (see below).

Pictures taken from inside the Crater:

Ngorongoro Crater

Ngorongoro Crater

I would also highly recommend Tarangire National Park which is close to the Crater region. Personally this is one of my favourite parks – it has the highest density of elephants per sq km in the world, and the landscape littered with baobabs is simply breath-taking.

Tarangire National Park

Other parks in the Northern Highlands worth a visit are Arusha National Park (not much big game, but a special feature would be its many flamingo-lined lakes) and Lake Manyara National Park (not much big game here too, but supposedly well-known for its tree-climbing lions – although I must say they are terribly hard to spot as the foliage in the park is very dense).

Arusha National Park

Q: Are these parks very touristy?

A: Yes. Especially the Crater – it can get pretty crowded with all the other safari cars (pic below is just a mild example). But the crowds can be useful because the drivers share information about animal sightings, and if a group spots something rare or exciting (like a cheetah or leopard in a tree, or a lion making a kill) it is not uncommon to find vehicle after vehicle trundling up shortly!

If you are interested in something more off the beaten track and less touristy, the parks in the Southern region of Tanzania may be a better option. I enjoyed very much my trip to the Southern Parks in July last year. It was refreshing not to be constantly trailing in another vehicle’s wake of dust. See my post on Ruaha National Park and Selous Game Reserve in the South and Southeast regions of Tanzania. But if your objective is to see MANY animals, I would still recommend the Northern Parks.

Q: How do I get there?

A: To get into Tanzania you will most likely be flying into Dar es Salaam – the main international airport in Tanzania.

To get to the Northern Parks (the parks listed above) you will need to either take a bus from Dar to Arusha, or fly from Dar into Kilimanjaro International Airport (JRO):

• Bus from Dar will be budget option – but note it’s an 8-9 hour drive (but very beautiful). You will need an entire day for this, so you have to spend the night in Dar and then head to the Ubungo Bus Station early the next morning to get on the bus. Tickets may be bought at the station and cost around Tsh30,000 ($17-$20) one way.
• Flight is on domestic airline Precision Air (www.precisionairtz.com) or Air Tanzania to JRO. Precision Air is generally more reliable and has more frequent flights so more likely to find a connecting flight which suits your arrival in Dar. Precision Air has 4 flights to JRO daily. Flight time is approx. 1hr 20 min and cost is around Tsh400,000 (US$235) return.

KLM, Ethiopian Airlines and Kenya Airways are the only international flights which fly directly to JRO, which means you would not have to transfer in Dar.

From Kilimanjaro International Airport, depending on your package (see FAQ below), you will either be picked up and brought straight to safari, or you can find a hotel or lodge in Arusha town to base yourself for the next leg of your travels.

Alternatively, you may fly into Nairobi, Kenya, and take a short 1hr flight to JRO or take a 4-6 hour bus ride across the border to Arusha town. This is commonly done. But as the border can be a bit tricky, would not recommend first-time travellers to Africa to choose this option unless accompanied by a local! Or unless very adventurous!

Q: What kind of tour package should I take or should I even go on a tour package?

A: You definitely need some kind of package, because you will need a vehicle and a guide (unless you are resident in Tanzania and know a guide and have your own vehicle!) Three options to consider:

1/. Book your stay directly with the safari lodges in any of the Parks. This includes full board accommodation + activities, i.e. game drives, walking safari or even fly camping. Vehicle and guide is provided by the lodge. If you do not have your own transport to get there, you have to take another plane (small 10-seater aircraft) from JRO or Arusha directly to the airstrip closest to the lodge and then they will pick u up from the airstrip. The lodge will be able to arrange the flight for you. If you take this option, it might be more efficient to fly direct from Dar to the airstrip itself. Check out Coastal Aviation – they do the flights to all the safari destinations within Tanzania. Alternatively, ask the lodge if they can arrange to pick you up from JRO airport or Arusha town.

2/. Book the whole safari through a freelance guide or tour agent based in Arusha. They will provide vehicle + guide for your safari, and will help you book accommodation at the lodges. There are a range of options of accommodation which you can select from. You will only pay a one-time lump sum package price to the tour agent/company. You can arrange for them to pick you up from JRO airport and transfer you to either your hotel in Arusha or straight to your lodge in the Parks. You will be with the same vehicle and driver for the whole safari and will be dropped off at the airport or your hotel in Arusha after your safari.

3/. Last option: book everything through an agent from your country of origin! They will then go through the procedure in option 1 above. This is the most hassle free.

Cost-wise I think option 2 is probably the cheapest. Option 1 is more expensive because of the additional flights you may need to take. But it’s more relaxing (the game drives are at fixed timings in the mornings and late afternoons/evenings so you can rest and enjoy the lodge during the hot mid afternoons; you get better food because you return to the lodge for all meals (under option 1 you have a rather dry and unexciting picnic lunch because you are out all day). Also, you get to travel around the parks in an open safari vehicle (i.e. only roof, no sides), and the guides from the lodges are usually more knowledgeable about the particular Park because they are based there. Option 3 is the most expensive of course but seriously worth considering if you are pressed for time. I know friends who have done this and found it well worth every cent.

My friend Willie doing something at Ngorongoro Crater

Q: Sounds like a lot of flying. Is it convenient/safe?

A: Generally yes. Getting around Tanzania is not as easy as it would be in a country with developed infrastructure. Hence, transportation like flights tends to be expensive as this is an industry purely catered to tourists and foreigners. However, flights are frequent, convenient (although the ride to airport can sometimes be harrowing if you are in Dar) and pretty safe!

Q: Is there anything to do in Arusha?

A: If you do decide to base yourself in Arusha before or after your safari, yes, there is lots to do!

• If you are interested in the Rwandan genocide, the International Crime Tribunal for Rwanda is based in Arusha, and court hearings are open to the public.
• The Tanzanite Experience showroom/museum is definitely worth a visit, where you can learn all about how it was discovered and processed, and purchase some of your own. Tanzanite is a rare gemstone only found in one location (near Arusha) in Tanzania.
• If you are interested in coffee, a lot of coffee grows in the Arusha (Mt Meru) region, check out Arusha Coffee Lodge or Wildtracks for coffee farm tours.
• There is also a fascinating snake park and Maasai museum/village about 30 min drive from town.
• For traditional Tanzanian souvenirs and paintings check out the Maasai Craft Market on Fire Road.

There is also lots of good food in Arusha and some of my favourite restaurants in Arusha include:

• The Blue Heron (Haile Selassie Road – beautiful garden setting with hearty burgers, gourmet pasta and fresh juices)
• Masai Café (opposite ICTR – best pizza in Arusha)
• Breakfast at The Arusha Hotel (clocktower roundabout)
• Khan’s Chicken (Tanzanian style barbequed chicken and chips) – go for the outlet at Mosque Street for the ‘local’ experience!

If you have an entire day and want to get out of civilisation, you can take a day trip to the Arusha National Park, which is only 30 minutes drive away. Or you can consider doing a cultural day visit in one of the neighbouring villages around Arusha, such as Mlala, Marangu, Machame and Mto ya Mbu to learn more about the traditional ways of living in Tanzania and the different cultures of the different Tanzanian tribes. Check out the website of Tanzania Cultural Tourism for programs available.

Q: When’s the best time to go on safari?

A: It is always a great time! There are always a lot of animals in Tanzania all year round and the landscape takes on a different character with the arrival of the seasonal rains (long rains in Dec and short rains in May). June-Sept is the coolest time of the year but also very dry. Peak periods for tourism are June and December. As I have mentioned, the animals are unpredictable so if you base your arrival on some specific event you may be in for disappointment. For example, I know that the Grumeti River Crossing at the Serengeti happens in the mid-July period – but the animals may not necessarily cross the day(s) you are there (this happened to a couple we met – they waited at the river for 4 days and the animals crossed the day after they left!) Do also check if the lodge you intend to stay at is closed at any particular period as the common practice is to close for a month or two during low season (it varies). My advice is, as soon as you are able to take time off work, regardless of what time of the year it is, just go! There will be animals waiting for you.

Q: What else do I need to consider which they don’t tell me?

A:

• The traffic in Dar is really bad so if you fly in and intend to leave for Dar airport again first thing the next day, make sure you stay in town or somewhere close to the airport. If you are taking a bus early the next day, then stay somewhere near Ubungo where the bus station is.
• Carry a day’s worth of extra clothes and personal necessities with you in your cabin luggage in case of baggage delays. They do get there, but sometimes a day or two late.
• It takes 45 minutes to get from Kilimanjaro International Airport to Arusha Town, so do factor that in your plans.
• Do not confuse Arusha Airport with Kilimanjaro International Airport. These are two different airports!
• If you are booking your domestic flights on your own, do consider booking round trips to include all your destinations in Tanzania because Coastal Aviation and Precision Air also flies to most of the popular tourist destinations in Tanzania such as Zanzibar, Pemba, Mafia Island, Ras Kutani etc so take advantage of that. It is usually cheaper to book it all under the same itinerary. For example, the itinerary DAR-JRO-ZBR-DAR costs only slightly more than DAR-JRO-DAR.

Q: I’ve been on safari already. You’ve got it all wrong here!

A: Do drop me a comment to let me know how your experience went, so this post can be updated with more accurate and up-to-date information! :)

 

Weekend in Oran

Algeria sits on the northern tip of the African continent, on the Mediterranean coast, across the sea from Spain and France. It is actually the largest country in Africa, but not the most populated (most of the country comprises of the Sahara desert!). The country is similar in demographic to Egypt, Libya, Morocco and Tunisia (its bordering neighbours) – predominantly Arab Muslim. As it used to be a French colony, the people speak both French and Arabic, and the French influence remains evident in the architecture, town planning and aspects of the culture and food, although quite a lot of it has been overtaken by Arab culture as well. Due to many years of civil war (up to the late 90s), Algeria has not enjoyed the same level of prosperity or development as its North African neighbours who were also former European colonies, such as Morocco and Tunisia.

Algiers City Centre

Algeria has had a long and violent history – tracing it back in a nutshell, it was territory of the Roman empire, then the Ottoman empire, was subsequently occupied by the Spaniards, and thereafter the French. Sadly, a lot of the relics of its rich history has been destroyed or has not been preserved.

Capital city Algiers. Blue is the Sky and White is Algiers

Where we live in the not-so-glamourous part of Algeria - El Attaf

A few weekends ago, Nick and I took a short weekend staycation in Oran, the 2^nd largest city in Algeria, and probably one of the most cosmopolitan in the country. It was a breath (or rather, gulp) of fresh air for us to ‘get away’ from the little town we live in, where life is very basic and people extremely conservative. I was especially excited to take a swim at the hotel we had booked ourselves into (I have yet to see a swimming pool in Algeria apart from in a hotel). Also, it was kind of “liberating” because in the international hotel we did not have to be too concerned about our attire (for example, we could wear shorts and swimsuit, etc). And in general it was nice to be in a large city like Oran where we could enjoy some different food and behave abit like anonymous tourists.

Oran is a really beautiful city with an impressive coastline of jagged mountains and cliffs. The boulevard of the old town overlooked the large port, and it made for a fascinating view with the dramatic contrast of ocean and sky, mountains and roads, cranes and containers!

We also really enjoyed driving/walking around the old town because of the lovely colonial architecture. The buildings in the inner part of the old town and the radial plan of the roads reminded me of Paris, and as it got closer to the seafront boulevard, the architecture took on the semblance of the French Riviera cities like Nice and Cannes.

Branching out of the old town, the architecture starts to change and becomes more sparse and functional. We were quite amused to see the crazy mash of different architectural styles; some of the newer developments in fact looked so much like HDB neighbourhoods!!

Apart from drives/walks around town and the afternoon in the pool, we also enjoyed a lot of ICE CREAM. For some reason Oran is chockablock with large gelato shops decked with colourful chairs and umbrellas, especially along the seafront boulevard, all selling ONLY ice cream (they did not even sell coffee or snacks!). We also discovered the prettiest café/restaurant we had ever seen in the whole of Algeria (to date and in my opinion). Although we were already super full from dinner (indian food!) we simply HAD to go in and and order something!

By the way, here’s the cross-section of the ‘Hedgehog’ sundae:

Thus ended our two day recce-trip/staycation in Oran. What it really was was a much needed getaway from our small town and the drudgery of a 7-day work week. I’ve realized that we city folk can’t be away from the city for too long – things just get too claustrophobic and mundane. Oran, we’ll be back! And next time hopefully we shall be staying in THIS hotel! (Haha!)

Hotel Royal: #1 on Trip Advisor for Oran

 

A tribute to housekeeping and my pink rubber gloves

Housekeeping is not a virtue I have ever embraced.

I have never really done any housework in my life. Although we never had a domestic helper when I was growing up, and my parents had always worked full-time, somehow the floors and toilets were always miraculously cleaned (I know the truth now – thanks mum (and occasionally, dad) u’re amazing), and no one ever really asked me to do it. My house-keeping skills were limited to the occasional dish-washing and vacuuming (which I must add is the greatest invention ever – especially for a household comprising 3 girls with long hair). That said, the house was always kind of dusty though. And also we hardly cooked, because no one had time to clean.

I then married into a family who are BIG on cleanliness, tidiness, and home-cooked meals. Fantastic! All was good as long as I did not have to be the one providing all of the above (and thankfully I didn’t, because we were fortunate enough to be able to afford help for our house in Tanzania).

I did however, pick up house-keeping critique skills. I learnt the THEORY of house-keeping from my mother-in-law, and was able to instruct the house-girls as to what kind of brush/soap they should be using for different situations, how to use different cloths (of different fabrics) for wiping the counter, drying the dishes and wiping the sink. Things like that.

Nonetheless, I never had any interest or desire to do anything vaguely domestic. Cooking interested me at the beginning, but it was never a natural flair, and when my life started getting busier I also naturally spent less time cooking, favouring recipes which involved an instant component (such as green curry – just throw in chicken, veg and green curry paste; fried rice – just throw in rice, veg/meat, and the fried rice sauce; and stews – just throw in meat, veg, and the stew mix). [My sister will say this is not so much a circumstantial development than it is a genetic legacy which I inherited (c.r. R. Chang, "Terrible Cook but Great Mum", The Sunday Times, 28 August 2011)]

Also, whether it be because of my RGS upbringing or my own family’s practices, or a combination of both, for some reason I find that I inherently reject domesticity. I want to be OUT THERE, doing the SERIOUS stuff, creating things, fighting for rights, meeting people, cutting deals (ok maybe not cutting deals…but you get the idea).

When we moved to Algeria, Nick and I had our own little flat (no huge shared company house this time) and obviously it was part of the package that we would hire house-help to do the cleaning for all the expats in the company (we all live in separate apartments in the same neighbourhood compound). But as the house was small and I was at home a lot, I started to get frustrated with having people poking around the house every day; and NOT following my theory of house-keeping very well too, if I may add. (In their defence, it was because of my communication difficulties in French). So finally I told Nick that they should only come and clean 3 times a week and cook 4 times a week, and that I would take care of cooking and cleaning on the remaining days.

So, not really sure what I was in for, I armed myself with my pink rubber gloves (which I have since become rather fond of) and yellow plastic basin, and have been doing house chores for the past 2 months (with the exception of ironing, floors and toilets.). Washing and tidying has become part of my daily life now, seeing as we are at home most of the time (we don’t really go anywhere except office), so there is always a lot to clean and wash! I also spend a lot of time cleaning this juicer machine I bought for the 7-day juice cleanse I was doing with my sister (even though the cleanse has ended, juicing has since become a daily part of our life).

Today while I was cleaning up yesterday’s dishes and today’s juice remnants, I realized that house-chores have become a rather big part of my life and day. It is time-consuming and on days when I am both cooking and cleaning I think I could spend up to 3 hours on chores. Nick helps out occasionally, but seeing as he is bringing home the bread and butter (from outside, presumably), I kind of feel like the house-keeping/meals-providing at home should be my part of the bargain (c.r.my latest conspiracy theory in epilogue below). On some (or rather, most) days I am highly frustrated with the cleaning because (let’s just admit it), it is SO mundane. But today as I was cleaning that damn juicer, I felt like housework has been a critical component in helping me attain some kind of stability and sanity for my life in Algeria – which has otherwise been characterized by sheer isolation.

Seeing as we do not have much recreational activity or social life here, working in the home (amongst other things) has given me a way to channel my energy towards a purpose – not just a choiceless and mindless purpose, but one that is directly linked to my marriage. By serving in the home, I am experiencing a component of what marriage as a PARTNERSHIP is like. Of course I still believe that women need to have our individual pursuits/vocation which inspire, energise and interest us; and trust me, I will NEVER stop pursuing that. But I guess I have learnt that service in the home is a crucial element when the main shared thing in marriage is the matrimonial home. Serving at home equates to serving my marriage.

That said, I am pretty sure I will never become a domestic woman. And Nick knows and accepts that about me too. In Tanzania I was fighting against poverty, HIV, diarrhoea, genocide – and I continue to be passionate about those things. But it seems like in Algeria I have just been called to ‘fight’ for my marriage – which must be equally if not more important. I pray that (despite incessant complaining) I will continue to remain faithful to the cause!

[Epilogue: I wrote this some three weeks ago, and since then Nick has heard me rant endlessly about how the idea/belief that housekeeping is a woman’s role was invented by none other than men themselves, simply because they DID NOT want to do it, and it was just an easy way to get out of it! I still believe that.]

 

Simple ways to brew coffee at home and why you should

After I got into the coffee business in Tanzania, I came back to Singapore and realised that people in Singapore (like me before),  hardly make their own coffee at home, and even if they do, make instant coffee! After my coffee tastebuds have been spoiled by pure Arabica, I just could not go back to Nescafe again. Hence the first (okay, one of the first) thing I did when I got home was to procure a French Press for my kitchen so I could brew coffee daily for myself and my family (and for lucky guests who visit me!).

Making freshly brewed coffee at home is so easy, I don’t know why I never did it before. Probably because in Singapore it is so cheap and quick to just grab a cuppa from a neighbouring Starbucks/McCafe /Yakun/Toastbox. Italian coffee or local kopi? Arabica or Robusta? The choices are endless. Also, I never knew how to brew coffee anyway.

But now that I own a coffee business and have learnt how to brew my own coffee, I have decided to share how simple and beneficial it is to enjoy a freshly brewed cuppa in your very own home, with hardly any fuss.

STEP 1 –

Get yourself some coffee beans! Writer’s choice of beans is Wamama Kahawa hand-roasted Tanzanian Arabica. ;D

STEP 2 –

Get a simple home coffee grinder. I use this tiny one here which cost around $15. Two tablespoons of beans and two whizzes in the machine and the coffee grounds are ready for brewing. Coffee retains its freshness the best when it is only ground before drinking. But I usually grind more at one go and chuck what I don’t use into the freezer.

If you do not want to get a grinder, by all means purchase pre-ground coffee. I have to say though, that the disadvantage of this option is that although convenient, pre-ground coffee actually consists of rejected/old coffee beans (same concept as mince meat being made from spare parts of the animal!). Hence, if you choose pre-ground, freshness and quality is definitely compromised to a certain extent, as opposed to purchasing whole bean where you can actually see the beans.

STEP 3 –

Select your choice of home coffee maker and brew your coffee!

(a)    French Press/Plunger

This usually comes with a scoop.  Prices range from $15-$70 depending on size and brand! The one I bought from NTUC cost $30 and can make 4-5 cups. Starbucks sells a single-cup Bodum press for $24.

How to use: Put ground coffee into the press, pour boiling water into it (one scoop of coffee = one cup of water. Reduce water if stronger coffee is desired). Fit plunger lid back on and press down until the plunger stops just above the water level. Leave for a couple of minutes. Push plunger all the way down before serving.

(b)   Italian cafetiere / Moka Pot

My favourite method. Makes strong and rich coffee. Traditionally used by the Italians to make espresso. Ours in Algeria makes 2 mugs and cost about $20. Have not seen this in Singapore – let me know if anyone comes across it!

How to use: Fill the lower chamber with water, fill the grounds basket with grounds, put on stove, switch on heat and just wait for the water to boil. Serve immediately!

(c)    Filter coffee machine

This is my least favourite method because it involves more cleaning and in my opinion the same amount of work! But it is useful if brewing coffee for larger numbers of people (the above two options can usually only make 2-4 cups max). Also, most of these machines have the heated plate which helps to keep the coffee warm. Suitable for families where not everyone gets up to have their coffee at the same time! The one we have at home cost $50 from Best.

How to use: Add ground coffee to the basket, fill water chamber to required level (there are usually markings to tell you how much water for 1 cup, 2 cups, etc), switch on and leave until the coffee stops dripping into the carafe. Remember to switch off heat before leaving the house!

***

Health
Any healthy stuff in coffee can only be found in freshly brewed coffee. Processed/instant coffee contains none of the antioxidants which have shown to be beneficial in reducing the risk of Alzheimer’s Disease, Parkinson’s Disease, dementia, diabetes and stroke. Also, the oft’ complained about calories really come from the trimmings, so if you brew your own coffee, it is less likely that you will consume as much milk/sugar/the works with it, as opposed to if you got a coffee outside.

Convenience
The  methods above are sooo quick and easy. Washing up may be a bit of a pain, but in the case of the French press and the Italian cafetiere, it is hardly more complicated than washing a cup! And it is a small price to pay to enjoy freshly brewed coffee at home or in the office.

Cost
A 500g bag of ground coffee or coffee beans would cost you between $8-$18 and can make at least 50-60 cups of coffee. Taking the consumption of a regular to heavy coffee drinker, it should last for at least a month, bringing the daily kopi consumption cost to between $0.30-$0.60 a day. There is the initial investment of purchasing the relevant appliances, but as you can see above, the cost is really minimal. This article about  little ways to save big money talks about how making your own coffee instead of buying it on your way to work can help you save over $100 a month.

There are occasions where a Starbucks or a Kopi-C is really needed to hit the spot. And I don’t dispute that because I know HOW THAT FEELS! But for the early morning before-you-leave-the-house-for-work coffee fix, in my opinion nothing beats a freshly brewed cuppa. Whether it be over the newspaper, or breakfast with the spouse, it is a sacred moment to be enjoyed and not rushed-through!

If you are in Dar (Tanzania), visit Wamama Kahawa to enjoy a cup of freshly brewed coffee. Between 8-10am every morning, house brewed coffee is Tsh1,000 – almost the same as if you brewed it at home!

 

Neema Crafts: Empowering the disabled in Iringa, Tanzania

Last month, when my family came to Tanzania to visit, we drove through Iringa on our way to safari and made it a point to stop over at Neema Crafts for a visit. Andy Hart (whose wife, Susie, has been running Neema Crafts for the past 8 years) gave us a really comprehensive, educational and inspiring tour of the place – which left a lasting and deep impression on my mind and heart.

Neema Crafts employs disabled people to work in a host of different creative and eco-friendly activities. These include, weaving, sewing, drawing, producing recycled paper products, making beaded jewellery and ornaments, producing recycled glass products, and serving at their in-house café.

When we entered the workshop, I was struck by how many different things were going on. In one room, 4 people were weaving at customised looms which allowed them to work entirely with their hands and did not require the use of their legs. In another room, people were working on a sewing machine to fasten beads on fabrics, there were others threading beads. Others were making recycled paper, and one man was concentrating hard on drawing intricate silhouettes of zebra and baobab trees on greeting cards made from recycled paper. I loved the atmosphere – it was quiet (most of the folks are deaf/mute), but it was buzzing with purpose. I felt like we (the gawking tourists) were getting in the way of people doing serious work; a big change from the usual Tanzanian establishments I was used to where the staff were invariably bored, tired and unmotivated.

The café was staffed and served entirely by deaf people. The menu contained nuggets of useful tips like how to say “I would like…”, “how are you” and “thank you” in sign language, and one would make orders by filling in the order slips on each table. This provided a great interaction experience  between the staff and customers – and personally it challenged me to get out of my comfort zone and communicate directly to the staff in the simple sign language taught by the menu. The café also had a corner where magazines and information on various topics such as book-keeping and computer skills, were available for the staff to read and learn.

Other things we saw on our tour included the kiln (produced and constructed by Neema themselves) where old glass bottles were melted down, recombined and reshaped to form beautiful glass beads, and the two men working the kiln – one is deaf and the other had one arm. The physiotheraphy rooms where children with cerebral palsy could exercise. There was even a project where they sold basic and low cost solar powered bulbs, radios and battery-charging devices to people living in the rural parts of the country who either had no electricity or could not afford electricity. Andy told us great stories about kids whose grades improved tremendously because they were now able to study in the evenings.

The giftshop was full of pretty trinkets and beautiful woven products. Some of the signature Neema products included the Kanga patchwork blankets, woven shawls, beaded jewellery and recycled paper journals and photo albums. While my mother and sister went to town loading their shopping baskets with gifts for their friends back home, my husband and I quizzed Andy with our burning questions, such as, is Neema Crafts self-sustaining (they are working towards it, but 20% of income still comes from donations), and how much capacity do they have to hire all the disabled people who come to them seeking for employment (the waiting list is limited to 40 persons – but they do not employ all (see second last paragraph below)).

As we walked, Andy shared with us personal stories of various individuals at Neema Crafts who had been locked up and condemned by their families for a good part of their lives, escaped to Neema Crafts where they learnt skills and found employment, and their lives were transformed after they became economically productive and turned around to become the breadwinner of their families. The change in their lives was not only on an economic level but on a personal level from the dignity and confidence found from being skilled and employed.

I was simply struck by how effective Neema Crafts was. They were involved in so many initiatives – all were eco-friendly, low cost and received great response from the public; the skills which the disabled people picked up at Neema Crafts were not only useful and income-generating, but the creative process which they were engaged in also turned out to be therapeutic, for many of them suffered from depression, trauma (due to abuse, or from an accident which paralysed them) and/or low self-esteem. I kept nodding emphatically at everything Andy said during the tour, because I agreed so much with everything they were doing! In fact, I was so envious – Neema Crafts had built up such a great reputation and were obviously doing so well – would Wamama Kahawa someday see this kind of success?

But at the end of the tour, we  realized that Neema Crafts were not so much interested in numbers or sales or expansion. What is really on Neema Crafts’ heart – which is the basis underlying every new initiative and project they undertake, is the changing of society’s perceptions; that instead of being written off, or hidden as an embarrassment or curse, disabled people can be, and are, good workers. They are employable, and they deserve to be – in fact, many of them exhibit more motivation and drive than able-bodied people. It is not Neema Crafts’ aim to keep expanding their sales and operations so they can employ everyone on their waiting list. Instead, they help many on their waiting list to find jobs in other businesses and organisations outside.

The success of Neema Crafts is a testament to the fact that disabled people are ABLE. It is evident from the bustling coffeeshop, the giftshop which is always packed with tourists, and the masses of hand-made products ordered by hotels and shops around and outside the country which are sent out everyday. This success in turn boosts the image of the disabled and encourages the community in Iringa (and Tanzania) to accept and embrace them – socially and economically – instead of shunning or hiding them.  Such long-lasting change – not just to individual lives but to social perceptions and attitudes, is to me, sustainable social and community impact at its best.

Visit Karama to purchase selected items from Neema Craft.

 

Safari in Tanzania’s South

Safari is actually a Kiswahili word meaning “journey” – and “going on safari” actually just means to travel. In Swahili we say “Safari Njema” – which means Bon Voyage. But for some reason the word has since come to be used commonly in the English language to refer to a trip into the African bush for the purpose of viewing game.

In mid July, my family and I went on safari in Southeastern Tanzania. We spent 2 nights at Ruaha National Park and 2 nights at Selous Game Reserve. It was a very special trip to me because it was the first time that (1) I travelled to the South of the country; and (2) I was on safari together with my family.

From my online research, I learnt that the Southern parks in Tanzania were much more isolated and “wild” than the Northern Parks (Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Lake Manyara, etc). Also, it was less frequented by tourists and hence visitors would hardly see another vehicle while driving through the parks (this is in stark contrast to the Northern Parks where safari vehicles would be literally lining up next to each other). Also, the South was more ‘bush’, as compared to the Northern plains, and hence one might see less game because there are less sprawling open areas. I was afraid of this, and worried that our chances of sighting game would be slimmer than if we went to the populated parks of the North, however, a part of me for some reason had a feeling that even though we may see less game, we would see more ‘action’. And boy was I right!

The animals we saw behaved pretty differently from their counterparts in the North. For one, they were much less used to people and cars. The baboons and monkeys fled from us (instead of in the North where they flocked to people and cars and literally snatched food out of people’s hands). So although we saw mostly the backs of the jittery animals such as the baboons and impala, the general feeling I felt was that the environment here was much more natural and unspoilt, and this is the way animals should behave! Also, because the animals are not used to people, we were able to drive around in a completely open vehicle (except for roof), and stop in the open for picnics and drinks – which really added to the experience!

Some highlights of our trip:

 

Cheetah sighting in Ruaha NP – we spent almost an entire day hunting for this bugger. Unfortunately he had already finished his meal. We did learn alot of interesting things about cheetah though. How their numbers were dropping in Ruaha because of competition from the lions (who frequently steal their prey, or kill them if they compete for prey) and the lack of plains for them to hunt.

Our tent at Mwagusi Camp at Ruaha NP overlooking at Mwagusi River. Rustic yet luxurious. It was pretty amazing how they managed to create something so comfortable yet so eco-friendly and in tune with the environment. Only discomfort were the mosquitoes in the day time when the tent wasn’t zipped up.

Hippo and croc sightings at one of the lakes of the Great Rufiji River on our boat safari at Selous Game Reserve. Selous is one of the largest game reserves in Africa and the lake is home to one of the largest hippo and crocodile populations in Africa. There were so many hippos! But they were mostly hiding in the water in the day because their skin is unable to take the sun. Come nightfall that’s when they awake and go inland to feed on grass. In the evening at dinner we saw two foraging in the bushes a few metres from our table.

Our tent at Selous Safari Camp – overlooking the Lake Nzerakera. Where one can see the animals from every angle from one’s bed. Magical moments include: waking up in the middle of the night to see giraffes galloping towards the lake, and seeing a hippo foraging in the grass right outside our tent. Rachel (different tent) was woken up by an elephant nosing in the trees behind  her bed!

Relaxing afternoon activities for one and all at Selous Safari Camp. Left: View of Nick on the deck from the bathroom; Right: Pool at the camp – great sun but water was freezing!

Bathroom in our tent. Showering under the stars was a pretty cool experience. It does have its drawbacks though, for example, when a sudden breeze passes while one is showering… But in the day time when the sun is shining it’s wonderful!

Lions tucking into fresh kill. We got there just minutes after they took the baby wildebeest down. We watched in horror and silence as the baby wildebeest moaned while the lions were tearing it apart. The moaning went on for a good 10-15 minutes, during which time 2 lions were already taking out a few organs from its mid-section and another 2 had its jaws around the animal’s head. This solemn rite made us realise that (1) it takes quite long to die; and (2) there is no compassion in the wild.

Another horrific scene of vultures tucking into a dead buffalo. This one died of natural causes and hence the vultures managed to get there first. The buffalo was completely rigid (its front legs were stiff in mid air), and there was a hole in its thigh where the vultures were taking turns to stick their heads into. As we watched more and more vultures swooped in – the noise and smell was simply horrendous. They fought with each other to get into the hole (it is located beneath all the spread-out wings in the pic). From this we learnt that vultures are obviously not very good at tearing into carcasses and hence need the help of larger game to do the job.

And to close on a light note after all the gruesome scenes above, I leave this parting shot of a mother lioness playing with her 1-week old cubs.

Safari at Tanzania’s Southern parks was a really special experience. It was luxurious and wild and scary and amazing. As predicted, we did not see many other safari vehicles or people (except those at staying at our Camp), and I believe we saw the animals at their most natural element. We drove, walked, dined, slept, showered and pee-d in the bush and felt completely immersed in the wild. We probably did not see as much game as we might have on the plains of Serengeti, but the entire experience that we had belonged to us only, and I think that made all the difference!

 

Algerians know best

*The original language of all dialogue was French

At the lift lobby of our flat:

We arrive in Algiers and on reaching home, N and I shove our 4 bags of luggage into the ancient lift (which still runs mechanically with a key). We are spotted by a Woman Who Must Be one of our Neighbours (WWMBN).

WWMBN: No! No! You can’t put all into the lift!

N: It’s okay! We have done it before! [he omitted to say: at least three times in fact!]

WWMBN: No, no you can’t do it!

Us: Yes, yes we can!

WWMBN: (now holding on to the lift door): No no you can’t!!

N takes 2 bags out of the lift and runs up the stairs to the 6^th floor while I take the lift with the rest of the bags.

At our well-frequented restaurant:

Boss: What would you like to order?

R: Can I have a coffee please.

Boss: Coffee after meal!

-silence-

R: Ok, then how about steak?

Later…at the same well-frequented restaurant:

Salad arrives. N reaches for the bottle of vinaigrette dressing on the table. He is spotted by the Boss.

Boss: Vinaigrette already added in the salad!

N: Yes, okay, thank you! (continues to direct bottle towards salad)

Boss: No, no, vinaigrette already added in the salad!!

N (grudgingly returns bottle of vinaigrette back to its original position): …

At a shop:

R spots a terry-cloth beach robe of a knee-length size hanging on the wall of a shop.

N (pointing to the beach robe): How much is that?

Boss: 870 dinars. It is for children.

(R wants to try it on.)

N: Can we have a look at it?

Boss: No. It is for children.

 

Turning 28 in Singapore

Early May this year, I arrived back in Singapore for a visit. Yesterday, I celebrated my 28^th birthday with friends and family (separately) in Singapore.

My dear friend Willie texted me happy birthday, and in true-to-Willie style, asked me, “how does it feel to be 28 in one word/phrase?” I love these Willie-questions – they are designed to give one no choice but to stop partying and actually seriously reflect.

Finally I replied with one word: “Refreshed”, and explained briefly that I actually feel more confident and optimistic about life lately.

The past 2 over weeks in Singapore have been nothing short of exciting. My return coincided with the General Elections and the appointment of the new Cabinet. A lot of conversations with friends and family (especially family, seeing as my sister is a reporter at the national newspaper’s political desk and my father an avid current affairs follower for decades) have centred around the happenings during the election campaign period and the period immediately following the ‘watershed elections’, whereby a team from the opposition took a GRC (defeating two cabinet ministers) for the first time in history, and 9 candidates from the opposition have found themselves a seat in Parliament.

I had never taken a very keen interest in the political scene in Singapore; perhaps because I fell in the more fortunate class of citizens who had options (i.e., to leave) and did not need to worry about survival issues (and perhaps because there was no “political scene” to be interested in anyway…). Furthermore, I had been living overseas for the past 2 years and developments at home did not concern or affect me very much. But this recent return to Singapore changed that. Everywhere I went and with whomever I met (friends, friends-of-friends, beautician to taxi-driver), there would be an inevitable discussion relating to the developments in the local political scene. It brought to light (to me) a lot of the difficulties faced by many Singaporeans, and also made me realise that many Singaporeans were unhappy (and NOT for the reasons that I was – these were real survival concerns, not just about pests or lift upgrading). And through those conversations, I felt a strong sense of community and belonging welling up inside of me. Here in Singapore I was an insider, I could relate to and had a personal opinion on the issues discussed by my peers as well as any man on the street. It was a strange refreshing feeling of being “connected”, a first-class citizen – a feeling I had almost forgotten, having been an outsider in another man’s land for awhile now.

In the 2 weeks following the elections, the papers in Singapore were full of dramatic news; the retirement of 5 Cabinet ministers (1 of them the founding father of Singapore), the formation of a Cabinet consisting of many new and younger faces, culminating in a speech by the PM at the Cabinet swearing-in that Ministers’ salaries will be reviewed (an issue of unhappiness amongst citizens for a long time – our ministers are the most highly paid in the world). Reading the papers yesterday (where in the Cabinet swearing-in speech the PM announced that Ministers’ salaries would be reviewed) I suddenly felt very moved. No, not by the fact that Ministers will get a pay-cut, but from all the events in the past few weeks, culminating in this. I was surprised, and yes, moved, that for the first time, the government was listening to the people. And it did not take a revolution, a coup, an underground/rebel movement or some form of protest or violence to make that happen. The issue of ministers’ salaries have been a sore point for the people for many years, but that was all it was, a sore point. No one had fought, protested or even remotely threatened national security over this issue. And I simply could not believe it. In my mind I always felt that Singapore would always stay the same because true blue pragmatic Singaporeans would never do anything ‘radical’ enough to change the system. But without a doubt, it was a fair and democratic election, the opposition seats were won fair and square (and went to deserving and qualified candidates), the campaign was conducted entirely legally, the coverage by the national press and a lot of the commentary (at least a lot of the more widely circulated posts which I read) even in the social media was well thought-through, mature and objective, and there was peace in the country throughout the period (save for a couple of bad traffic jams on rally nights). People spoke through their votes, and the government listened. Most people may not think this is a big deal, and in fact this is exactly what democracy should be, but to me, living in a part of the world where democracy is but a term thrown around in diplomatic relations with the US, where 80% live in poverty and where the governments are shooting anyone trying to revolt, it is huge.

I had actually thought that I might never be able to go back to Singapore to live again; pace of life too fast, too crowded, too expensive, too much regulations and bureaucracy… but Singapore is suddenly looking attractive again. Apart from it being where my family and friends are, I suddenly also see it as a place where I am…relevant. The gains made by our democracy in the recent elections have showed me how Singapore (and its people) have evolved and has won my respect; it has showed me that as a born and bred citizen, my vote, my voice and my participation will count.

I have learnt a lot about the world from my travels in the past few years; I am thankful for the opportunity and also believe without a doubt that I have contributed in a small way and have been shaped profoundly by those precious experiences. But I also know that I will always be an outsider looking in, whether with amazement, rage, inspiration or heartbreak, always with limited participation or knowledge, with a desire to do more but yet with a sense of helplessness and sometimes even fear.

It surprised me that whilst I was back in Singapore I did not feel claustrophobic, but connected. I did not feel stressed, but challenged. Not burnt out by the pace, but refreshed. No fear, but a renewed sense of freedom. Perhaps I am just being sentimental after being away for so long and will start lamenting these very things in no time. But I think I say it objectively when I say that in Singapore, where I am an insider, I actually have a real part to play in society, in shaping the future of this nation. And I will always belong here more than I would in any other part of the world.

On my 28^th birthday I realised that I am full of hope again. Surprisingly, I didn’t feel panicky about my future (as I have been feeling throughout the past 2 years – since I left). I felt strangely refreshed, realising that no, I am not old at all. I have so much to give, perhaps even more now than 2 years ago. And I’m excited to see what the future holds.

 

夜深人静的时候

手牵手，我们追逐不同的梦

手牵手，我们走遍地球，寻找遥不可及的心有灵犀

你的牺牲，我的胜利

我的骄傲，你的怨恨

手牵手，看不到还是向前走

不要放弃，不可放手

手牵手，坚信梦还会灿烂。